Southern Ontario Sonerai 1

[Steve Stephenson]

It does. I'm at the hangar now making the measurements. Thanks Ed.

 

[Steve Stephenson]

It does. I'm at the hangar now making the measurements. Thanks Ed.

 

[Steve Stephenson]

Okay, the wings are even now but the ailerons are not. I'll straighten those up and go flying. Should just be some tweaks from there.

 

[Steve Stephenson]

The tachometer I bought on Amazon packed it in. I've got a new one coming from Aircraft Spruce along with a couple more items like an antenna I will be installing on the underside.

Ailerons are "zeroed" now, meaning the angle of incidence and the elevator positions are exactly the same on both sides.

 

[Steve Stephenson]

Replaced the fuel sight gauge line. The old line was leaking in a couple of spots so I elected to do all tubing right up to the instrument panel where there's only a short transparent section now.

Other photo is of Seth, my main helper, with the apparatus we used to measure angles and even the wings up.

 

[Steve Stephenson]

New tachometer went in today. Flight Data Systems T30. No trouble. If you get one, be advised that you must make your own harness. They provide resistors but you'll need some shielded wire 22 or 24 gauge. I used 14 because that's what I had "in stock".

 

[Steve Stephenson]

Put a wrap-around checker on the starboard wing to give it the racing look. Not bad for Tremclad. Will add a small bee/hornet graphic to it somewhere. Everybody says it looks like that.

 

[CdnMedic]

If you want to supercharge your tremclad/rustoleum paints, you can add some enamel hardener and enamel reducer. The hardener helps it "cure" instead of just drying. Also adds a bit more gloss and UV protection.
I spayed a Subaru with that concoction a couple years ago and you couldn't tell the paint job cost me under $100. Paint felt nice and slick and not soft like straight tremclad.

Just make sure you're using the oil based paint, not the newer water based formula.

 

[Steve Stephenson]

Oil based brother. It's straight Tremclad applied with a fine roller. I added the same thing to the tail of my Luscombe 6 years ago. Still looks new. Wish I knew about your formula. Next time.

 

[Aviacs]

Here's an example available from tractor supply.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/majic-catalyst-hardener-clear-half-1-2-pint?cm_vc=-10005
There are others.
get the safety data sheets and read them.
The products work well, the good ones contain polyurethane/poly isocyanates.
IOW, fresh active charcoal respirator is still not good enough. Really ought to be applied while wearing air supplied hood.

The amount is small compared to spraying actual linear polyurethanes. But the issues are not to be trivialized if you value long term health.
To be clear, the issues are not "makes you feel bad for a while". they are "permanent incremental damage"

I didn't treat my lungs well when younger, seem to mostly have been lucky, maybe trying to over-compensate now.

smt

 

[cosmic]

Any feedback on how the Flight Data Systems T-30 is going? Considering getting one for my Jabiru 3300.

 

[soneraifred]

I‘ve had the T-30 in my IIL for years. It works very well, so well that I put one in my Wag-A-Bond, and I’ve got one for my Ultra Pup project.

 

[Steve Stephenson]

That's a ringing endorsement. I really like it so far. Very accurate and easy to read. I should also add that mine is wired to the magneto switch as opposed the the back of the magneto.

 

[cosmic]

Thanks Fred and Steve for your comments. On a Jabiru engine the T-30 apparently connects to the alternator (with an extra $50) modification) which I wasn't enthusiastic to do but Fred's endorsement has given confidence.

 

[Bil4381]

This is my Sonerai II LS with the Jabiru 3300 engine and Fuel Injection. Right behind the right rear cylinder sits a Denso 45 amp alternator. Had it rebuilt. I had to turn up pullies for both the flywheel and the alternator which also allow the drive belts to clear the engine mount and for easy belt replacement. Why? At the time I had electric carb heat which the original Jabiru alternator could not handle. Bill E

Thanks Fred and Steve for your comments. On a Jabiru engine the T-30 apparently connects to the alternator (with an extra $50) modification) which I wasn't enthusiastic to do but Fred's endorsement has given confidence.

 

[Steve Stephenson]

That's alot of work Bill. Looks great.

 

[Bil4381]

It's a staggering amount of work, over 7 years. Since then I bought a Deuce and am looking at a Starduster Too. One of the members of this group wants to buy it. Never occurred to me to put it up for sale.
Thanks for the complements. Bill

That's alot of work Bill. Looks great.

 

[cosmic]

Those air ducts for the cylinders look terrific Bill. Did you make them or are they from another plane?

 

[Bil4381]

I got them from the Jabiru dealer in Lancaster Ontario. I don't remember what I paid... I like the look of them too.
Bill

Those air ducts for the cylinders look terrific Bill. Did you make them or are they from another plane?

 

[Steve Stephenson]

Not sure how much help this will be but I'll give it a shot.

1. I understand rear spar dropping to be a go-fast trick, not a stability enhancer, but I could be wrong. In either case, all my experience is with a 2LS, not a 1.
2. It drops in cruise or during a stall? If in cruise, have you adjusted the aileron linkage to droop the left aileron more or the right one less?
3. Ah yes, the VW as pucker generator! Or maybe I should give that credit to the carb. Mine has never stumbled on final but it has during the "go" phase of a touch and go. It's quite an attention getter. I haven't solved it yet but suspect that the slower speed on final raises the air temperature under the cowling and that combined with low fuel causes vaporization. My next attempt might be to point some cooling air directly at the body of the carb. If you come up with something that works I'll very interested to hear about it.

Ed

Hey, regarding the carb, do you think it's possible that when advancing the throttle abruptly, the carburetor can't keep up with the airflow momentarily and hesitation is caused by an overly lean mixture? I'm thinking that the mistake I made was slapping the throttle forward too fast to shallow out my approach. The intake tubes are fairly long too and I'm asking alot from the system to bring the fuel/air up and over the engine. Just thinking.