Ok Tom, here it goes.
If I were looking to save as much weight as possible on a type 1 VW using an X-casting, alternator and duel ignition by saving every gram I could, I would consider the following (besides what you have already thought of):
The obvious things first such as lightening holes where possible and the lightest internal parts such as lifters, cylinders and rods using 41xx or better 43xx for the steel parts. Lightness and speed have the same factor, and that is $$$. Also trimming the flange for the transmission bell housing down, not going into the thicker squared section
Get Leonard Milholland's Better Half VW Engine plans and video (betterhalfvw.com). Leonard has built one of the lightest ½ VW’s out there. He looked to save weight on all the internal parts. For example, he drills out the centers of shaft components. Study what he did and apply it to our 4 cylinder VW. This also might be an engine to consider if you were looking to leave 2 cycle altogether, Tom. If you do build a better half, let me know, I have a change I was going to do that has no bearing on a 4 cylinder.
Use the stock valve covers, they are about 50 grams lighter each compared to the aluminum ones I have.
If you are going to use a remote cooler, drill and tap the stock cooler in/outlets for NPT to AN nipples instead of an adapter.
Don’t use a distributor type secondary. You will not need the brass distributor gear, spacer and the distributor drive. This will also let the engine make more HP by reducing the fiction to drive all that stuff. This is over 900 grams with a 009 distributor. You will lose some of the gain with the new ignition module and the mount for the sensors. See my photo gallery for my mounting of my Hall Effect sensors. (I have cut more away since mounting the Hall sensor.) I have a module from a Honda Nighthawk that I plan to toy with at some point. This type of secondary offers an advance curve, unlike the GP type which is fixes. The modules discussed in the other current thread look really nice to me. A programmable curve would be much better than one set for an engine that redlines at 10500 rpm or so. They are also priced right; I picked mine up for about $90 used 10 yrs ago to replace one that turned out not to bad- stupid pick-up coil.
Here is the one thing that will save you money. Don’t use a battery. Replace it with a capacitor. Our permanent magnet alternators do not need a field coil, so they need no power to start to generate power (excepting mechanical power for the physics sticklers out there). The down side to this is you can’t run your electric stuff until the motor is fired up on the mag, but you have time for those things while your oil warms up. The correct size capacitor can be found in any Harley Davidson store or catalog. While you are there, you might want to look at regulators. There are two types and I do not know what type ours are. The first type puts a constant load on the engine and dumps the excess power to ground. The better type, read $$$, adjusts the load to suit the need. This allows more HP when you turn off the extra electrical stuff.
This should get you started, but it is by no means an exhaustive consideration of the possibilities. When I think of more, and I will, I’ll let you know.
Please forgive any grammar/spelling mistakes, I hate proofreading!
Scott R
Many of these things will be incorporated in the 1915 engine for the next project, one of Ed Fisher's 'Lil Bitts. Some of these will also be put into the 2287 that will go into my IILS.
